Salmon Tips
Perhaps the most well-known fish on earth, the Alaskan salmon, is know across the globe for its excellent table fare and unparalleled angling experience.
Although Captain Zac is constantly creating detailed articles and videos on specific aspects of salmon fishing, a foundational set of salmon fishing tips is included below – a useful resource for novice and experienced anglers alike!
Note that many topics discussed at a high level below will eventually be linked to more detailed content. Enjoy!
ALASKA'S SALMON RUN
Fishing for these Pacific treasures begins with understanding Alaska’s five different ocean-run salmon. Fishing tactics vary by salmon species as well as location – saltwater or freshwater. The most important aspect of salmon fishing (and frustratingly, the most uncontrollable) is the timing and intensity of each salmon run. The graphic below shows a chart that the Alaska Fish & Game publishes for each region of Alaska (Juneau area shown here), including versions for both saltwater and freshwater runs – which are different. The salmon run begins in the saltwater since the salmon are returning from the ocean and then proceeds to the freshwater where salmon are returning to spawn. These charts are useful for trip planning purposes and generally describe the salmon run timing but many variables (such as rainfall) can impact when the salmon runs actually occur each season. Click here to access the Run Chart Tool from Alaska Fish & Game.
Graphic Source: Alaska Fish & Game
The Alaska Department of Fish & Game has published an excellent salmon identification and fishing guide. Click here for the full guide or see below for the highlights and additional fishing tips.
ALASKA’S 5 SALMON SPECIES
CHINOOK / KING SALMON
The King Salmon is the ultimate prize of Alaskan salmon fishing. The largest of the 5 species ranging from 15-40lbs on average, these giants are the first to arrive each year – usually in May/June depending on location. The world record King Salmon was caught in the Kenai River and weighed over 97lbs!
Although the sheer size of King Salmon can be a dead giveaway, it can sometimes be difficult to tell the difference between a small King and a large Coho. Often this occurs when “feeder Kings” move into near-coastal areas to feed on herring. These Kings tend to be smaller and are often feeding during the coho run.
The easiest way to resolve this confusion is to check for a black gumline and spots on both the upper and lower lobes of the tail. If the gumline is black and spots are present on the top and bottom of the tail, it’s a King!
Graphic Source: AK Fish & Game
COHO / SILVER SALMON
The Silver Salmon is one of the most sought after species of Alaskan salmon. Weighing in at 8-12lbs and known for their jump-filled fights and excellent table fare, it is no wonder why many anglers travel to Southeast Alaska specifically to target these “silver bullets.” Cohos typically arrive in across Southeast Alaska mid/late July through August (depending on location).
A few distinct features allow anglers to confidently identify a Coho. Although Cohos have a black tongue just like a King, a Coho will always have a white gumline. Additionally, a Coho will only have spots on the upper lobe of the tail fin whereas a King will have these spots on the top and bottom.
Graphic Source: AK Fish & Game
PINK / HUMPIE SALMON
Although not typically targeted for their table fare, Pink Salmon are a blast to catch and often more willing to take a bait, lure or fly than any other Alaskan salmon. Weighing in around 3-4lbs, Humpies deliver a pound-for-pound great fight which can wear out any angler after a day of non-stop rod-bending action! Pink Salmon arrive in Southeast Alaska in early July depending on location. There is no better way to introduce a younster to salmon fishing than to target the peak of the Humpie run with spinning or fly fishing gear – these fish will eat just about anything!
Pink Salmon are easy to identify, with large oval black spots along the top of the fish (including the dorsal fin) and on both lobes of the tail. As the Pinks work their way towards their home streams/rivers, a hump will form on their back – hence the nickname Humpies!
Graphic Source: AK Fish & Game
SOCKEYE / RED SALMON
Sockeye salmon are probably the most challenging of the 5 Alaskan salmon species. Their wonderful table fare is know worldwide, producing some of the most vibrantly red salmon fillets on earth. These salmon average 4-12lbs and drive freshwater fishermen crazy due to the precise tactics required to catch spawning Reds given their diet that favors zooplankton over traditional salmon offerings such as herring (few if any sportfishing anglers target Sockeyes in saltwater, although commercial netting abounds – e.g., Bristol Bay). Sockeyes arrive in Southeast Alaska around the end of June through August depending on location, with freshwater anglers favoring the later end of that timeframe when the spawning Reds will be in the streams/rivers.
Sockeyes are identified by their distinct lack of spots (in the salt) and then eventually by their unmistakable deep red color as they enter the spawning phase.
Graphic Source: AK Fish & Game
CHUM / DOG SALMON
Last but not least, the under-appreciated Chum salmon. This toothy salmon is often overlooked given their less than inspiring table fare but they certainly can be an absolute blast to catch and release! These fish average 7-18lbs and offer an outstanding fight. Chums typically arrive in Southeast Alaska late June through August.
Their unmistakeable “tiger stripes” and “canine teeth” have many anglers wondering if they have hooked a prehistoric fish.
Graphic Source: AK Fish & Game
ALASKA SALMON FISHING TECHNIQUES
The overwhelming majority of salmon fishing in Southeast Alaska is done utilizing the following general techniques. Most fishing targets Kings and Cohos but angling details about all 5 salmon are included below.
Marine Trolling
Trolling is a popular approach to catch Kings & Cohos. Often anglers use downriggers to present their baits at precise levels, which gives them the ability to systematically cover different depth ranges and then hone in on the active bite. Constantly monitoring the fish finder for bait balls (usually herring) often provides a lead for what depth the salmon will be feeding.
A typical trolling setup includes a flasher in front of a hootchie, herring, trolling fly or small spoon. Most anglers use a tried and true standard 11-inch flasher for but some prefer an in-line flasher spinning flashers more vibration. Some Coho anglers scale down to an 8-inch standard flasher.
Behind the flasher, a tail leader ranging from 20-48″ is typically used. Kings prefer a slower and wider roll behind the flasher so a longer leader is preferred while Cohos like a faster/shorter roll thus would prefer a shorter leader. Generally speaking, if using a hootchie or fly, opt for the shorter side of this range to maximize action from the flasher, and, when trolling a cut-plug herring or small spoon, go for the longer leader to maximize action from the bait. Be sure that your flasher has quality ball bearing swivels – standard barrel swivels may seize up in the saltwater and cause a terrible twisted tangle!
See the Flasher Rigging Guide from Pro Troll, a popular brand of flasher, for more details
A dual salmon hook rig is often used for a hootchie or herring. These rigs come in different hook sizes and line strengths as well as in fixed or sliding (mooching) hook styles. These rigs are generally inexpensive so I suggest stocking up on extras – especially when fishing for big Kings! For Kings, I prefer a 30-40lb rig with a sliding hook, which allows me to adjust the length of the top hook to accommodate size of the bait so that the trailing hook is in perfect position to maximize hookups. A 20-30lb test rig is great for Cohos.
For a hootchie rig, run a few spacer beads down the line and then run the hootchie down. The beads will cause the hootchie to sit slightly above the first hook, letting the bottom hook dangle free just beyond the length of the hootchie legs.
For herring, the most common rigging approaches are a cut plug or a helmet – both achieve the same goal of spinning the herring.
To create a cut plug, anglers use a miter box to cut the head off of the herring at and angle – be sure to use the correct side – the King/Chinook side will create a wider and slower roll while the Silver/Coho side will yield a tighter and faster spin. Proponents of cut plug herring claim that this is the most natural bait thus produces the maximum amount of strikes. The downsides are that it can be tricky to get the spin just right and also a bait can be easily fouled by passing debris or wear and tear. There is nothing more frustrating than pulling a bait up that hasn’t been spinning correctly for who knows how long! Brining herring beforehand can help create a firm bait that is less prone to sogginess and fouling – plus some brines include colors such as vibrant blue, green or natural sheen, making the herring more visible to the salmon. Some cut-plug herring anglers use this approach quite successfully without a downrigger. They troll the cut plug herring behind a 4-8 oz banana weight (depending on current/depth) and count the number of “pulls” of line behind the boat to zero in on the strike zone.
Other anglers prefer a herring helmet, such as the Pro Troll Roto Chip, which is attached to the herring’s head and helps ensure a perfect spin – the plastic fin on the helmet forces the herring the rotate. The helmets come in clear or a variety of colors which can add a dimension to your offering. The big benefit of this approach is that you “set it and forget it” knowing full-well that your bait is spinning correctly. A potential downside is that the extra hardware on the herring’s head could present as less realistic than a cut plug.
At times color can have a profound impact on catch rate. Keep in mind that there are nearly endless color combinations possible when pairing a flasher with a hootchie. Although some colors more consistently produce results, it is important to have a number of different colors available and be willing to switch colors and try new combinations when the bite is slow. For deeper water (50ft+), adding a glow element (flasher and/or hootchie) can help salmon locate the bait more precisely.
My three “go to” color profiles for flashers and/or hootcihes for kings are as follows. I usually test a few color variations & depth ranges until I get a strike.
1. Green / Chartreuese
2. Pink / Purple
3. White - white on white is a great pattern that emulates a darting squid - it is so frustrating when you've got hundreds or thousands of dollars of colorful gear and the most productive pattern is basic white!
Over the years, I tend to prioritize patterns with green when trying different color combinations while King Salmon fishing. Kings tend to feed deeper in the water column than Cohos thus it is not uncommon to have lines set at 100ft or deeper (where glow colors truly shine, literally!).
Although Cohos are often caught using similar colors/tactics as Kings, Cohos tend to run shallower – often hitting in 30ft or less! Cohos also tend to prefer a faster and more vibrant/flashy bait, thus silver, bright green, gold, chartreuse elements are often used, sometimes in combination with with more muted colors, such as a black flasher with silver reflective stripe, or a purple hootchie with silver glitter (Cohos can’t resist this herring look alike!).
Trolling speed is an important component of any salmon trolling outing. Use your fish finder / chart plotter or hand-held GPS to track your speed carefully and note how fast you are trolling when strikes occur so you can keep targeting a productive speed. Kings tend to prefer a wider-spinning bait at a slower speed, often 1.5mph or less (sometimes as slow as .5 or .7 mph). Cohos tend to prefer a tighter-spinning bait at a faster speed, often 2mph or more. Pinks and Chums are less picky and tend to be caught as by-catch while targeting either Kings or Cohos (highly dependent on run times).
Keep in mind that when trolling in tidal areas, which is most of Southeast Alaska, it is critical to account for the current. Pay attention to whether salmon are striking while trolling with or against the current – sometimes both are equally productive but it can also be the case that one direction significantly out performs the other! Additionally, when tracking your trolling speed, take account of the speed with which the current is moving the boat. If your boat is drifting at 2mph and you are trolling with the current, you will have to troll at 2.5mph just to “pull” your baits at .5mph through the water. Conversely, if you are trolling against a 2mph current, proceeding at just .5mph would have the affect on your bait action of pulling your presentation 2.5mph.
Mooching is a different saltwater approach that offers the benefit of “rod in hand” instead of watching a trolling rod. Mooching is done by drifting or using the engine lightly to ensure the correct speed (“motor mooching”) to create a slight angle on your line. With mootching, the a herring is worked vertically through the water column, often 48″ behind a 4-6oz banana weight or a round lead connected to a slider swivel. The first variation of mootching is letting the bait drop slowly down often to depths of more than 150 feet and then slowly reeling it back up. Another mootching approach is to lower your bait to the target range and then slowly lift the bait and let it fall every 10 seconds or so, working a smaller depth range more intensely. Not surprisingly, the first approach is more effective when the fish tend to be spread out while the second approach is best when a large school of salmon is located at a specific depth range under the boat.
Shore Casting - Estuary Waters
After 3-5 years feeding in the ocean, salmon return to their native streams to spawn. This often creates a convergence of hundreds or thousands of salmon during the peak of the run as these fish are returning to spawn.
The estuary waters (where the stream or river meets the ocean) can yield very productive fishing given that waves of incoming salmon often “stage” at the mouth of the stream before embarking on their upstream journey to spawn. These fish often hold for a few tide cycles but can sometimes spend days staged at the mouth of the stream or river, creating a concentration of salmon that often leads to rod-bending action! Also note that in times of drought, fish often concentrate more heavily at the stream mouth waiting for adequate flow to enter the stream. During times of average or more rainfall, fish will spend less time stages and more easily be able to enter the stream to start their spawning journey.
When fishing estuary waters tides are key. Remember, these fish are staging with the intent to enter the stream and proceed upstream. Thus, a popular approach is to begin fishing estuary waters at a low tide and “ride the tide” upwards into the stream or river, essentially following the fish. At the bottom of low tide, the fish are most concentrated at the mouth of the stream thus fairly easy to locate (look for “jumpers”) and target. As the tide rises, the salmon will work their way into the stream channel, allowing either boating or wading anglers to proceed upstream and continue to target the schools of incoming salmon. Always be on the lookout for “jumpers” – salmon leaping out of the water is always a good sign that countless more salmon are likely lurking below the surface. A good pair of polarized glasses can also help as sometimes (based on sunlight and water clarity/depth) schooling fish are visible below the surface.
Anglers in estuary waters target salmon with a wide range of tactics.
Marine trolling approaches work will in these areas, especially if the area has deep water nearby the stream mouth (i.e. it is not practical to troll in 3ft of water, however, some areas have 10-40 foot depths nearby and do setup well for shallow trolling flashers, herring, hootchies, etc.).
Fly fishing is another popular approach. Fly fishing anglers often use 6-9wt fly rods (depending on target salmon species) and large streamers such as Clouser Minnows or Egg Sucking Leaches (a Wooly Bugger on steroids!). In estuary waters, given the varying current flows, anglers tend to make long casts and vigorously strip the fly back in order to create the most realistic darting action.
Casting is a very common approach for estuary waters. Often with medium/heavy spinning or conventional (bait casting) gear, anglers use a variety of artificial lures to entice salmon strikes. Popular offerings include spinners such as the Flying C, spoons such as a Little Pixie and maribou or hootchie-tipped jigs. Vibrant colors such as pink, purple, orange, chartreuse, green and white often work well. Long casts and consistent retrieval speed reward those using spinners and spoons. Jig fishing offers a near-endless variety of retrieval depths and speeds, which can often yield strikes on days that other methods are not producing.
Stream / River Fishing
Of course, salmon fishing along the bank of a stream or river is a time-tested approach. Once again, tide cycles are key are need to be studied given fresh waves of salmon will be entering the stream on the rising tide.
A variety of productive salmon fishing techniques are used by steam-side anglers.
Fly fishing is common within streams, however, there is more focus on using egg patterns and achieving a natural drift. Some fast streamer stripping is still employed (often to create a “reaction strike), but given that eggs are a naturally occurring food source, egg patterns with lots of maribou such as the Egg Sucking Leach tend to produce results.
Casting is another popular approach. Like in estuary waters, spinners, spoons and jigs are a go-to method for catching salmon. Casts are typically shorter (across the stream) and angled upstream so that during retrieval the bait moves downstream. With spinners and spoons, some anglers prefer to use the current of the stream to help provide the lure action, only slowly reeling as the lure proceeds through the current. A variety of jigging methods can be used ranging from erratic retrieval (never contacting the bottom) to a bottom-bouncing approach that methodically contacts the bottom prior to each lift.
Many stream and river anglers drift salmon eggs under a float. This approach most typically employs a medium/heavy spinning or conventional gear paired with a slip bobber and a hook. Cured eggs or fresh eggs in netting (“an egg sack”) are often used which stay on the hook better than a cluster of fresh eggs. The most typical method of curing eggs utilizes powder cure (e.g., a borax based powder in a variety of colors) that is sprinkled on the eggs to dry them out after a few days. This salmon fishing approach requires anglers to adjust the slip bobber to the correct depth so that the bait is drifting just above the bottom. Then, a series of methodical upstream casts are made, allowing the bait to drift through high-potential salmon areas. While this approach is repetitive to some (making similar casts again and again), it often yields some of the best salmon stream fishing results! Be sure to check local regulations before using bait such as eggs in any freshwater (stream/river/lake) fishery.
Back-trolling in Rivers - while not as prevalent in Southeast Alaska, this approach in a mainstay for the larger rivers in Southcentral (such as the Kenai River) & Interior Alaska. Jeremy Anderson from Fish Alaska Magazine highlights common setups for back-trolling in this insightful blog post.
Since Sockeye Salmon feed almost entirely on plankton, sport fishing for these tasty Alaskan fish can be tricky. Mark Glassmaker from MG Alaska Fishing does a great job explaining the nuances of catching Sockeyes on a rod and reel in the following blog post.
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