Halibut Tips
Bringing a nice halibut to
the dock in Juneau, Alaska!
Anglers travel from all over the world to pursue one of Alaska’s most prized bottom dwellers – the Pacific Halibut. Known for their excellent table fare, potentially enormous size and pound-for-pound unparalleled fight, these magnificent flatfish are often the primary target of self-guided anglers in Southeast Alaska.
Although Captain Zac is constantly creating detailed articles and videos on specific aspects of halibut fishing, a foundational set of halibut fishing tips is included below – a useful resource for novice and experienced anglers alike!
Note that many topics discussed at a high level below will eventually be linked to more detailed content. Enjoy!
The Attitude / Mindset
Halibut fishing is a marathon, not a sprint. Never get too high, never get too low. Stay persistent, stay optimistic.
Gather local knowledge of spots & tactics but be bold and try new approaches aligned with sound fundamentals.
Trust your instinct. This isn’t rocket science – don’t overthink it.
Develop a daily game plan based on tides and weather.
Enjoy the journey – Alaska’s splendor can transform slow fishing into an unforgettable experience in a heartbeat.
Respect nature. Appreciate the raw power of Alaska, prioritize safety at every turn.
Have a blast!
Safe Navigation
Tides can be extreme (15-25 feet!) so it is essential to know the tide phase at all times. Hazardous rocks and reefs that are fully exposed at low tide can lurk just under the water’s surface at high tide. Know the waterways including “safe passage” shipping lanes. Use all available navigation aids – handheld GPS, boat chartplotter, navigational maps, compass, etc.
Always have multiple navigation aids in case of failure. Double check emergency equipment such as flares, matches, medical kit, heat blanket and food rations. Go slow – especially when new to an area or operating in low visibility situations such as fog, heavy rain and/or low light. Before you need them, test essential navigation items such as VHF radio, kicker (backup) motor, radar, etc.
The Spot
Focus on the fundamentals of halibut habitat. Halibut tend to prefer flat bottoms that are muddy or sandy but don’t overlook the ridges and drop-offs that often surround reefs and points. A few example spots are pictured below.
HOLE – A CIRCULAR DOWNWARD SLOPE WITH A FLAT BOTTOM
Typical hole – 150ft bottom
surrounded by shallower water
MOUND – A CIRCULAR UPWARD SLOPE WITH A FLAT TOP
Typical mound – rising from 300ft to 150ft
REEFS – RIDGES AND DROP-OFFS NEAR REEFS
Typical examples of ridges and drop-offs near a reef
POINTS – UNDERWATER POINTS, OFTEN EXTENDING FROM LAND POINTS
Typical point – with underwater point extending outwards
BAY / CREEK MOUTHS – OUTGOING TIDES FLUSH SHRIMP, CRAB, & DEAD SALMON INTO MAIN BODY
Typical mouth of bay – best fished on outgoing tide
Typical mouth of creek – best fished late in season
(August onward) after King/Pink/Chum salmon spawn
Always consider how the tide and currents impact where the halibut may be staging. Often currents will carry baitfish, crab and shrimp across defined bottom features. Halibut frequently stage in “ambush points” that provide relief from currents (such as the down-current side of a mound) while creating an easy feeding opportunity – the food drifts right to them!
The Game Plan
Always have a plan for potential spots you plan on fishing based on the timing of the tides. Don’t be afraid to mix and match halibut and salmon fishing in the same day. For example, fishing a low tide rising from slack for salmon around the mouth of a stream (salmon will commonly “ride” a rising tide into a stream) and then switching to halibut fishing an hour or two before high tide.
Always be aware of the tide stage. Action tends to increase around the tide changes. At the same spot, the current can be extreme at one tide phase (e.g., 1-2 hours after high tide) and calm at another (e.g., slack low tide).
Click here for a simple and accurate tide prediction tool that will help you formulate a halibut game plan based on the changing tides for your area.
Also, consider downloading the Navionics depth chart app on your smartphone or tablet (or accessible directly via your computer). These high quality depth charts are an invaluable asset when conducting pre-trip scouting of high-potential fishing spots – allowing you to maximize your effectiveness while on the water in Alaska!
The Setup
Two popular approaches are anchoring and drifting. Considerations include:
Note: One common variation of drift fishing is “back-trolling” which uses the engine running at a minimal speed in reverse to resist the current. Often, if current is strong (especially when fishing in deep water), the only way to achieve contact with the bottom while drifting is to employ back-trolling. The stronger the current, the more reverse thrust needed.
The Gear
RODS / REELS - Most halibut fishing is done with heavy conventional or spinning gear. Both work well. Conventional setups are more prevalent but I personally prefer a spinning setup. A quality reel that has a smooth drag system with ample stopping power will increase your chance of successfully battling a large halibut.
Conventional – the most common halibut setup is a large baitcasting-style real with a heavy or extra-heavy rod, such as a Penn Squall lever drag reel paired with a Lamiglas Insane Saltwater rod.
Penn Squall Lever Drag Reel
Spinning – another popular choice is a heavy-duty spinning real paired with a stout jigging rod, such as a Penn Slammer III (is 8500 high speed series) paired with a Penn Carnage (heavy action) rod.
Penn Slamer III Spinning Reel
Some people prefer to “scale down” and fish with lighter gear that more closely resembles a heavy salmon setup instead of typical halibut gear. This approach can make it more fun to battle small “chicken” halibut but can have you holding on for dear life if you hook a barn door. I have personally caught numerous barn doors on light gear so it certainly is possible to land the fish of a lifetime without an extra-heavy setup.
LINE
Most halibut fishing is done with heavy (generally 80-100lb test) super braid, such a PowerPro, which provides more sensitivity than mono, allowing you to feel your bait’s interaction with the bottom and of course feel even the lightest fish strikes in hundreds of feet of water!
Also, super braid has almost no stretch which delivers rock-solid hooksets. Halibut are not leader shy so some prefer a very heavy leader made of 100lb+ mono leader or parachute cord. I often tie a jig right to the main-line brain for maximum and hook-setting potential sensitivity.
Power Pro Super Braid
JIGS / BAIT RIGS
Two common approaches are bait rigs and jigs. While both techniques have advantages, I prefer to use jigs, which in my experience, are more fun to fish with and reliably produce rod-bending action.
Jigs come in all shapes and sizes, some as simple as an unpainted lead-head or as elaborate as as a glowing, fluttering, scent-filled masterpiece. A popular halibut jig size is 16oz but plenty of anglers employ smaller or larger jigs depending on conditions and preference.
“Hopping” a jig off the bottom by repeatedly lifting the rod is a common approach that produces halibut-attracting noise as the jig “thumps” the bottom (often triggering a strike). In addition to a large skirt, grub or other soft plastic, most jigs are tipped with some form of natural bait (see Baits below) such as squid or herring.
Bait rigs are also very effective for these massive bottom dwellers. Most bait rigs include heavy lead, a baited circle or J-hook and strong leader. A spreader bar is often used to help separate the weight and the leader to avoid tangles when lowering into the depths (the slower you lower, the less tangles you get). Halibut are not at all leader shy so parachute chord or gagnon line is often used.
There is a lot of debate about whether circle hooks or J-hooks are better for halibut. In short, circle hooks “set themselves” when a halibut bites, which leads to solid hookups once a fish is hooked but inexperienced anglers often yank prematurely causing frustration and missed fish. J-hooks require an angler to set the hook when the fish bites, delivering reliable hooksets for those who can accurately identify a bite and set the hook with gusto.
BAITS
Use for either bait rig or to tip a lead head jig. Don’t be afraid to try a combination of baits, such as a piece of herring and squid.
Herring - widely available, creates strong oily scent slick, catch fresh herring with sabiki rig when possible, curing herring with salt creates firm texture to hold on the hook better. Some use a few wraps of magic thread to further secure the herring to the hook
Squid - great natural bait, consider using strips of squid or a cluster of tentacles that flutter in the current. Stays on the hook well.
Octopus - halibut absolutly love octopus and it stays on the hook extremely well. An octopus tentacle flutters in the current to create an irresistable action. If you catch an octoput while halibut fishing, consider keeping it to use as bait (watch out for the ink and the beak!).
Salmon belly - a fantastic halibut bait with great oily scent that solidly stays on hook well, especially effective to tip a jig with a strip of salmon belly (flutters in the water).
Salmon heads - when fishing for “barn doors” (halibut over 100lbs), salmon heads are a great bait that will reduce the frequency of smaller bites, maximizing the time in the water for when the big one swims along! Pink salmon heads are most commonly used but for an almost-guaranteed barn door, king salmon heads are sometimes used.
SCENTS
A variety of scents oils, gels and jellies are available in halibut-inducing flavors. Popular scents include herring, squid, “butt juice”, garlic, anise, bloody tuna. Oils such as herring oil can be inserted into herring or other baits for longer-lasting scent dispersion.
If curing herring in salt, consider adding scent as well. Be sure to drain excess liquid when curing herring overnight or longer. Letting baits such as herring, salmon belly strips or squid marinade in scent for hours or overnight increases the potency once the bait hits the bottom.
Some anglers also use a chum bag filled with oily attractants such as herring and/or salmon heads. Chum bags are often attached to the anchor line but some prefer to drop on a downrigger depending on current and depth. The goal is to create a strong scent slick exactly in line with your bait!
The Bite
No two halibut bites are exactly the same but most often a strike from these bottom dwelling flatfish will reveal itself in one of the following ways. such thing thump thump, or just extra weight, hit it on the fall, the importance of a good hook set
Thump thump - A classic bit that undoubtedly sends your heart racing. Halibut often mouth a bait first so an immediate yank at first thump is often a mistake. Rather than a flailing hookset at first thump, wait for constant thumps lift the bait slightly to gauge whether pressure can be felt. If the bait lifts easily, wait for more thumps. If pressure is felt when the bait is lifted, the bait is in the halibut’s mouth – YANK! (see hookset guidance below).
Extra weight - Especially when fishing with a jig, you should be constantly in contact with the bait, often lifting it off the bottom. Whenever you lift and feel any extra weight, odds are that you have either a bite or a snag. Since a “swing and miss” costs you nothing except pride, I strongly advise always assume any extra weight is a fish. As such, when extra weight is felt, reel down towards the waterline to give yourself the best position for a successful hookset, then YANK! (see hookset guidance below).
An extreme version of the Extra Weight bite is the “railroad,” when a halibut hits “like a ton of bricks” which starts as an uncontrollable run. These unforgettable bites almost always hook themselves – so just hold tight and enjoy the fight! (see Railroad guidance in The Run section)
No weight - The opposite of the Extra Weight bite is the No Weight bite. Often, especially when hopping a jig off the bottom, a halibut will strike as the jig falls. A strike on the fall is immediately identified by the loss of contact with the bait. When contact with the bait is lost, anglers should reel down until there is slight pressure and then YANK! In addition to a halibut striking a jig on the fall, sometimes halibut will strike a bait rig and swim closer to the boat (either up-current along the bottom or upwards towards the boat), creating a classic No Weight bite situation.
The Hookset
Deserves its own category because this can make or break your halibut outcome.
Note – Hooksets only apply to anglers using J-hooks and jigs. DO NOT set the hook using a circle hook!!!
JIGS & J-HOOK HOOKSETS
After identifying any of the bites described above, be sure to:
- Ensure your drag is tight enough to avoid a yank that is mostly drag with minimal true yank on the fish. Reel down until the line is tight and you can feel the pressure of the fish
- Make sure your rod tip is down near the water, loaded with light pressure from the fish PRIOR TO setting the hook
- Unleash a ferocious hookset straight up and immediately begin reeling (Note: failing to reel and maintain pressure often leads to missed fish)
CIRCLE HOOK HOOKSET
NEVER set the hook using a circle hook!!!
- Once fish bites, rod will begin thumping (halibut mouthing the bait).
- After repeated thumps, the rod will eventually bend consistently downward, signaling that the fish is hooked. DO NOT YANK!
- Slowly begin to reel and maintain steady pressure on the fish throughout the fight. Yanking a circle hook before the halibut has fully taken the bait is the #1 reason people miss fish when using a circle hook.
Sharp hooks can mean the difference between the fish of a lifetime and a frustrating miss. Hooks get dull over time, especially in corrosive salt water and being snagged into rocky reefs. Always carry a hook sharpener and be sure to use it often – a razor sharp hook improves your chances of a halibut hookup considerably!
The Battle
The Hook up - Immediately after the hook set, it is helpful to quickly identify whether you have hooked a halibut. Halibut have a distinctive head shake (picture the the flat fish thrashing its head side to side) which has an unmistakable feeling and appearance. The rod will violently thrash up and down and you will feel the head shakes. Identifying that a halibut is hooked-up will allow others in the boat to begin preparing for the landing process (before the halibut arrives at the boat!).
The Drag - After screaming “fish on,” the battle begins. A critical first move is to assess your drag – needs to be tight enough to provide solid pressure but loose enough to allow a big fish to run. Err on the side of too loose as many more fish are lost due to “break-offs” than the other other extreme, getting “spooled” by a halibut that takes all of your line.
The Run - Most halibut start a fight with some kind of run, often once the halibut realizes that it is hooked about 10ft off the bottom. The size of the halibut will often determine the frequency and intensity of runs – but not always. Sometimes a 60-lb fish will fight as much or more than a 100-lb “barn door.” During a run, your goal is to apply constant pressure and be especially careful to maintain pressure at the end of a run. Many fish are lost after a halibut runs and the angler fails to maintain tight pressure as the fish changes directions (from running away to being reeled towards). If a halibut runs towards you, it is essential to reel as fast as possible to maintain constant pressure. A slack line often causes the hook to become dislodged, setting the halibut free and infuriating the angler.
Key Considerations - If anchored, determine whether the halibut is likely to swim near the anchor line. In moderate current the anchor will often be far in front of the bow while the halibut will be hooked from far behind the stern, creating enough space to safely fight the fish without risk of tangle. If fishing with limited or no current with a halibut directly vertical under the boat, consider pulling the anchor to avoid a tangle.
When a barn-door halibut “railroads” you, going on an uncontrollable run that you are helpless to stop, immediately take stock of your line capacity and assess whether it makes sense to either pull the anchor up or tie your anchor off to a fender/buoy ball and “follow the fish.” You can return to pickup your anchor after the fighting the fish. Getting “spooled,” or having a huge fish take all of the line with a powerful run even the strongest drag cannot stop, is an angler’s worst nightmare. Always err on the side of “following the fish” if you see that a halibut has taken half or more of your line capacity and shows no sign of stopping. If you realize that your line capacity is dwindling, certainly “lock down” the drag to the highest setting and begin apply as much pressure as you can without breaking the line.
THE LANDING
Prepare to land the fish BEFORE it arrives to the surface. Once near the surface halibut often see the boat and go on another run. Savvy anglers know this and are prepared to land the fish immediately as it approaches the surface (reducing the chance of losing the fish).
LANDING TOOLS
Gaff (most common – all sizes) – a short pole with a sharp hook attached used to secure and immobilize a halibut with an abrupt swinging motion.
Harpoon (most common – 30lb+ fish) – a long pole with a detachable “dart” connected to a wire/rope. Dart is thrust through the halibut and rope can be attached to cleat.
Gun / “Boom Stick” (less common – 150+lb fish) – to subdue the largest halibut, some anglers prefer to use a shot with a handgun or a shock from a boom stick (20 gauge shotgun shell on the tip of a pole).
Billy Club – a small bat used to repeatedly strike a halibut (directly above the eyes) until it expires.
Long Sharp Tool – to subdue large fish, once harpooned & gaffed, some anglers use a long sharp tool (such as a knife, shears or pliers) to repeatedly strike a halibut in the head to minimize suffering and reduce or eliminate flopping prior to boating the fish.
Landing Approaches
Small “Chicken” (less than 30lbs) – Distinct head thumps but minimal drag-screaming runs. Don’t let the quick fight fool you, these fillets will be some of the best-tasting the ocean has to offer – sweet and buttery! For the smallest halibut, often the best landing approach is to quickly gaff the fish and bring aboard. Sometimes small fish tend to roll when they get to the surface, which can cause them to throw the hook and swim back to the ocean floor. For small fish, gaff speed is more important than gaff placement. Ideally, gaff placement should be right behind the head & gill plate just above the centerline. However, a light halibut can be quickly swung aboard with basically any solid gaff placement. Once the fish is boated, a billy club is used to strike a small chicken repeatedly until it expires.
Nice Chicken (30-60) – Strong head thumps and some powerful yet manageable runs. You have hooked the holy grail of eating sized halibut – the nice chicken! A gaff or harpoon is appropriate for this size fish, with likelihood of a gaff at the small end and harpoon at the large end. I find that harpooning this size fish serves as good practice which is invaluable when landing larger fish. Harpoon placement is key – it should be deployed directly behind the head and gill plate and above the centerline. Once harpooned, this size fish can typically be pulled in directly with the harpoon rope. Once boated, a billy club is used to strike the fish repeatedly until it expires.
Jumbo Halibut (60-100) – Screaming drag has you wondering whether you have hooked a barn door but eventually you start to win back line and realize that you have hooked a true prize – the jumbo halibut is still prime eating and offers even more fillets than the smaller fish above. The harpoon is ideal for landing this nice fish. Once harpooned, anglers often use a gaff as well to ensure a rock-solid connection. I prefer to gaff the fish deep in the mouth, which provides a two-point connection that is immobilizing (holding the fish by the mouth and by the harpoon connection). This size fish can inflict some real damage by flopping around in the boat – breaking gear, flailing hooks, etc. To avoid this chaos, you may choose to dispatch the halibut outside the boat by striking the fish repeatedly in the head with a long sharp tool. If passion gets the best of you and you pull an active fish into the boat, quickly jump on the fish using your knees to immobilize the fish while using either a billy club or long sharp tool to strike the fish repeatedly in the head until it expires.
Barn Door (over 100lbs) – There is no doubt that you have hooked a true sea monster. Screaming drag, uncontrollable runs, head thumps that have you holding on for deal life. Welcome to the barn door club – or almost welcome, assuming you can land it. Let’s hope the practice paid off because these massive beasts can make fools out of the most experience anglers!
CONSERVATION POINT: 100+lb halibut are female “breeders” and represent the future stock of halibut for decades to come. The meat, while still good to eat, tends to be mushier and potentially more prone to worms. While many anglers harvest these fish and are well-within the law to do so, consider releasing these giants.
A barn door fight can last as little as 20mins or as long as 5 or more hours, with depth, current and fish attitude being key determiners. Once a barn door is hooked, preparation is key. Physically prepare by clearing the area of clutter and preparing the harpoon (connecting the rope end to a boat cleat or buoy). Mentally prepare as well – this is a just a much larger version of the nice chicken, which you have mastered by this point. Remain calm and intensely focused on what needs to happen when the fish appears, and similarly, what needs to happen if (or when!) things go awry.
The easiest way to land a barn door is take care of business immediately when it reaches harpoon range. Sometimes the angler can work the fish near the surface directly to the side of the boat in a “slow and steady” fashion. If you can harpoon the fish before it sees the boat, you may be able to avoid the a “final stand” run that could send the barn door all the way back to the ocean floor.
Once a barn door is harpooned, it will frequently thrash and run, which is why it is critical to tie the end of the harpoon rope to the boat cleat or buoy. After the initial thrash, I prefer to pull the halibut towards the boat as quickly as possible so that a gaff can be secured deep within the mouth (thus two points of connections, three including the fishing line). Given the immense power of a barn door, depending on the placement of the harpoon dart, there is a real risk that the dart could become dislodged amongst the thrashing. The quicker you get a gaff secured the better.
Once the barn door is immobilized with a harpoon and gaff, it is critical to dispatch the halibut outside the boat. Pulling a fully-thrashing 100+lb halibut in the boat is a serious safety risk and should be avoided at all costs. Instead, once immobilized, anglers should dispatch the fish by striking the fish repeatedly in the head with a long sharp tool. Bleeding will ensue and thrashing activity will subside. Take your time – be sure the give the fish a few minutes to expire prior to boating. Pulling the fish aboard can be done by brute force lifting or using a hydraulic lift such as a crab pot puller.
CARING FOR THE CATCH
“BLEEDING” THE FISH - Immediately after landing a halibut, it is imperative to “bleed” the fish to maximize the quality of the meat. Failing to take this step will cause blood to seep into the fillets – a totally avoidable outcome!
The process is quite simple. The easiest way to bleed a halibut is to make a vertical cut right in front of the tail all the way to the spine. Then, bend the tail back until you hear a crack and blood starts draining from the spine. Be sure to do this over/in a fish box or outside of the boat if you would prefer you your deck not be painted red. Click here for a video demonstration of how to bleed a Halibut.
KEEP IT COOL - After bleeding the halibut, be sure to keep it cool until you get back to the dock. A common approach is to rinse the fish with cold ocean water which both cools and removes any remaining blood. In-floor fish boxes are ideal since cold water is flowing directly under the fish. Coolers with ice are an option if a fish box isn’t available. If storing the fish in the bottom of an open boat, consider covering the fish with a tarp to reduce exposure to sun (in recent years Alaska has been more sunny than rainy).
SHIPPING FISH - Halibut fillets are often vacuum sealed and frozen immediately after harvesting. Depending on travel plans, there are a few options for shipping halibut from Alaska to wherever your home may be.
The most economical option is often bring a fish box on the airline as a checked bag, resulting in only a standard baggage fee. This option can lead to complexity if overnight connections are part of your travel (thus an additional fee for cold storage, such as the cold storage at Seattle’s SeaTac airport).
Shipping companies such as FedEx offer overnight shipping services that are the most convenient (delivered directly to your door) can be hundreds of dollars depending on number/size of fish boxes, distance, etc.
Selecting the proper fix box is important. Fix boxes come in a variety of sizes and insulations. A typical fish box is designed to hold 50lbs of frozen fillets but smaller 20lb or 10lb boxes are sometimes used as well depending on use case. For trips less than 12hours, anglers typically prefer a cardboard or wax coated box with a soft insulated liner (similar to bubble wrapping). For trips longer than 12hours and especially overnight trips, cardboard or wax coated boxes with a styrofoam liner are highly recommended.
When shipping fish, it is important to select the right size box to minimize empty space. Most commonly, frozen halibut fillets are packed tightly up to the full capacity of the fish insulated fish box and no extra dry ice or refrigerant is added. I have personally used this approach successfully dozens of times shipping fish from Alaska to the US East Coast.
However, some anglers prefer to add dry ice or gel packs to their fish boxes in accordance with current laws and policies. It is STRONGLY SUGGESTED that anyone seeking to ship fish using dry ice via airline or shipping service review and comply with current regulations.